矽靈不會導致禿髮,也不會阻塞毛孔,更不會傷害頭皮。如果您希望頭髮看起來更濃密,更應考慮使用含有矽靈的洗髮精。
有些偽裝成科學的謠言直到現在依然四處流傳,未曾稍歇。有些甚至直接牽扯到我們皮膚科醫師,例如這篇『皮膚科醫生建議少用的洗髮精』(參1),就是一個假皮膚科醫師之口,因而具有超強滲透力的謠言。
時至今日,筆者的診間還是有些病友相信矽靈會傷害頭皮與阻塞毛孔/毛鱗片。儘管食藥署都已經出面闢謠(參2),很多人的Line、e-mail還是一直流傳著這些謠言。
矽靈其實是數種矽氧烷聚合物的通稱,一般產品常見的成分包括dimethicone與cyclomethicone。在很多著名的洗髮精,像是麗仕、潘婷、還有筆者喜歡的海倫仙度斯(Head and Shoulders),就常因為這樣被很多有禿髮問題的病友封殺。
很不幸地,這類謠言不但不能保護禿髮的病人,還可能讓他們錯失不少好物。因為含矽靈的洗髮精不但不會讓禿髮惡化,反而可以讓頭髮看起來更粗。
當然,要破除謠言,一定要有無法撼動的事實與證據。所以我們可以到美國國家生技資訊中心(National Center for Biotechnology Information, NCBI),看看這樣的說法是否屬實,因為這裡可以查到所有人類曾發表過的生物學研究。
於是筆者到NCBI網頁(打pubmed.gov就可找到),輸入兩個主要的矽靈成分dimethicone, cyclomethicone,以及 alopecia(禿髮)幾個字。如果矽靈導致禿髮的證據相當充分,應該隨隨便便就可以查出好幾十篇......
沒想到,最後只跑出一篇paper。
且慢,該不會那篇正是第一篇證明矽靈會加重禿髮的關鍵報告!?我們仔細來看一下標題和內容。
"A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair"(一個治療頭髮稀疏的全新美容手法)看起來好像是個很神奇的方法。不過文章已經說這只是『美容手法』,就表示這不是一個真正的治療,只是一個增加美觀(偽裝)的手法。這篇可不是阿里不達小期刊上的奇文共賞,而是皮膚科學龍頭期刊--不列顛皮膚科期刊(British Journal of Dermatology)上的嚴謹研究。
這個研究使用的是含有咖啡因,菸鹼醯胺,維他命原B5,矽靈(dimethicone),以及丙烯酸聚合物(acrylate polymer)的洗髮精來洗頭髮。結果發現這個配方可以讓髮絲的平均直徑增加2-5μm,對於一般雄性禿變細的頭髮不到60μm的直徑而言,幾乎可以增加10%的直徑。
在這個配方中,讓頭髮變粗的因素包括了咖啡因,菸鹼醯胺,維他命原B5這幾個小分子的成分滲入髮絲使直徑增加,柔軟度改善,加上矽靈與丙烯酸聚合物沉積在頭髮表面,兩者加成之後,就可以創造出很有感覺的變化。只是頭髮表層裹上一層聚合物必然會減少光澤,因此矽靈還可以讓表面變得更加柔順、更接近正常髮絲,在整個配方中扮演一個畫龍點睛的角色。(參3)
為了印證這個論點,筆者也請太太與幾位病友分別用含矽靈與不含矽靈的洗髮精來洗頭,幾乎所有人都表示用含矽靈的洗髮精洗完之後,感覺起來的髮量較多,而且明顯不會乾澀。所以搞了半天,目前完全沒有任何證據顯示矽靈會加重禿髮。反而在某些讓頭髮變粗的洗髮精配方中,矽靈還有重要的角色。
寫到這裡,一定有讀者會說:『那只是剛好沒查到禿髮的證據,但其他部分不見得沒問題啊!』為了避免我們漏掉其他安全上的問題,筆者再拿dimethicone, cyclomethicone, safety(安全性)幾個關鍵字到NCBI網頁查,在國際毒物學期刊(International Journal of Toxicology)查到的結論都一樣:這些物質在現行的用法與濃度下都是安全的。(The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration.)(參4, 5)
順便一提,dimethicone還是一種衛服部核准的食用藥物(Gascon Tablet 40mg),現在還廣泛用來消除脹氣。這也是筆者當實習醫師時,這輩子第一次幫病人開出的處方藥。
因此,別再相信矽靈會傷害頭皮與頭髮的謠言了。這除了浪費大家時間去找尋無矽靈的產品外,也會讓頭髮更加乾澀,美觀上看起來更無優勢。
5. Int J Toxicol. 2011 Dec;30(6 Suppl):149S-227S. doi: 10.1177/1091581811428184.
Safety assessment of cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cycloheptasiloxane.
"A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair"(一個治療頭髮稀疏的全新美容手法)看起來好像是個很神奇的方法。不過文章已經說這只是『美容手法』,就表示這不是一個真正的治療,只是一個增加美觀(偽裝)的手法。這篇可不是阿里不達小期刊上的奇文共賞,而是皮膚科學龍頭期刊--不列顛皮膚科期刊(British Journal of Dermatology)上的嚴謹研究。
這個研究使用的是含有咖啡因,菸鹼醯胺,維他命原B5,矽靈(dimethicone),以及丙烯酸聚合物(acrylate polymer)的洗髮精來洗頭髮。結果發現這個配方可以讓髮絲的平均直徑增加2-5μm,對於一般雄性禿變細的頭髮不到60μm的直徑而言,幾乎可以增加10%的直徑。
在這個配方中,讓頭髮變粗的因素包括了咖啡因,菸鹼醯胺,維他命原B5這幾個小分子的成分滲入髮絲使直徑增加,柔軟度改善,加上矽靈與丙烯酸聚合物沉積在頭髮表面,兩者加成之後,就可以創造出很有感覺的變化。只是頭髮表層裹上一層聚合物必然會減少光澤,因此矽靈還可以讓表面變得更加柔順、更接近正常髮絲,在整個配方中扮演一個畫龍點睛的角色。(參3)
為了印證這個論點,筆者也請太太與幾位病友分別用含矽靈與不含矽靈的洗髮精來洗頭,幾乎所有人都表示用含矽靈的洗髮精洗完之後,感覺起來的髮量較多,而且明顯不會乾澀。所以搞了半天,目前完全沒有任何證據顯示矽靈會加重禿髮。反而在某些讓頭髮變粗的洗髮精配方中,矽靈還有重要的角色。
寫到這裡,一定有讀者會說:『那只是剛好沒查到禿髮的證據,但其他部分不見得沒問題啊!』為了避免我們漏掉其他安全上的問題,筆者再拿dimethicone, cyclomethicone, safety(安全性)幾個關鍵字到NCBI網頁查,在國際毒物學期刊(International Journal of Toxicology)查到的結論都一樣:這些物質在現行的用法與濃度下都是安全的。(The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration.)(參4, 5)
順便一提,dimethicone還是一種衛服部核准的食用藥物(Gascon Tablet 40mg),現在還廣泛用來消除脹氣。這也是筆者當實習醫師時,這輩子第一次幫病人開出的處方藥。
因此,別再相信矽靈會傷害頭皮與頭髮的謠言了。這除了浪費大家時間去找尋無矽靈的產品外,也會讓頭髮更加乾澀,美觀上看起來更無優勢。
不過,為何落建洗髮精還是堅持不使用矽靈呢?這其實無關矽靈安全性,而是與落建生髮水藥品療效有關的考量,就等下一篇文章再跟大家聊聊。
1. http://zueei.com/beauty/bad-shampoo
2. http://www.fda.gov.tw/TC/newsContent.aspx?id=13466&chk=22734a27-05bb-4381-8ef6-5f3a7bf3892e¶m=pn&cid=5049&cchk=55abc933-3e57-48db-afff-a8a4cc1e4ae0&scid=#.V5YTLEZ97C0
3. Br J Dermatol. 2011 Dec;165 Suppl 3:24-30. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x.
A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. 摘要原文:
參考資料
1. http://zueei.com/beauty/bad-shampoo
2. http://www.fda.gov.tw/TC/newsContent.aspx?id=13466&chk=22734a27-05bb-4381-8ef6-5f3a7bf3892e¶m=pn&cid=5049&cchk=55abc933-3e57-48db-afff-a8a4cc1e4ae0&scid=#.V5YTLEZ97C0
3. Br J Dermatol. 2011 Dec;165 Suppl 3:24-30. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x.
A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. 摘要原文:
BACKGROUND:
Many of today's treatments associated with 'thinning hair', such as female pattern hair loss and telogen effluvium, are focused on two of the key aspects of the condition. Over-the-counter or prescription medications are often focused on improving scalp hair density while high-quality cosmetic products work to prevent further hair damage and minimize mid-fibre breakage. Fibre diameter is another key contributor to thinning hair, but it is less often the focus of medical or cosmetic treatments.
OBJECTIVES:
To examine the ability of a novel leave-on technology combination [caffeine, niacinamide, panthenol, dimethicone and an acrylate polymer (CNPDA)] to affect the diameter and behaviour of individual terminal scalp hair fibres as a new approach to counteract decreasing fibre diameters.
METHODS:
Testing methodology included fibre diameter measures via laser scan micrometer, assessment of fibre mechanical and behavioural properties via tensile break stress and torsion pendulum testing, and mechanistic studies including cryoscanning electron microscopy and autoradiographic analysis.
RESULTS:
CNPDA significantly increased the diameter of individual, existing terminal scalp hair fibres by 2-5 μm, which yields an increase in the cross-sectional area of approximately 10%. Beyond the diameter increase, the CNPDA-thickened fibres demonstrated the altered mechanical properties characteristic of thicker fibres: increased suppleness/pliability (decreased shear modulus) and better ability to withstand force without breaking (increased break stress).
CONCLUSIONS:
Although cosmetic treatments will not reverse the condition, this new approach may help to mitigate the effects of thinning hair.
4. Int J Toxicol. 2014 May 26;33(2 suppl):65S-115S. [Epub ahead of print]
Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Crosspolymers as Used in Cosmetics.
Many of today's treatments associated with 'thinning hair', such as female pattern hair loss and telogen effluvium, are focused on two of the key aspects of the condition. Over-the-counter or prescription medications are often focused on improving scalp hair density while high-quality cosmetic products work to prevent further hair damage and minimize mid-fibre breakage. Fibre diameter is another key contributor to thinning hair, but it is less often the focus of medical or cosmetic treatments.
OBJECTIVES:
To examine the ability of a novel leave-on technology combination [caffeine, niacinamide, panthenol, dimethicone and an acrylate polymer (CNPDA)] to affect the diameter and behaviour of individual terminal scalp hair fibres as a new approach to counteract decreasing fibre diameters.
METHODS:
Testing methodology included fibre diameter measures via laser scan micrometer, assessment of fibre mechanical and behavioural properties via tensile break stress and torsion pendulum testing, and mechanistic studies including cryoscanning electron microscopy and autoradiographic analysis.
RESULTS:
CNPDA significantly increased the diameter of individual, existing terminal scalp hair fibres by 2-5 μm, which yields an increase in the cross-sectional area of approximately 10%. Beyond the diameter increase, the CNPDA-thickened fibres demonstrated the altered mechanical properties characteristic of thicker fibres: increased suppleness/pliability (decreased shear modulus) and better ability to withstand force without breaking (increased break stress).
CONCLUSIONS:
Although cosmetic treatments will not reverse the condition, this new approach may help to mitigate the effects of thinning hair.
4. Int J Toxicol. 2014 May 26;33(2 suppl):65S-115S. [Epub ahead of print]
Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Crosspolymers as Used in Cosmetics.
5. Int J Toxicol. 2011 Dec;30(6 Suppl):149S-227S. doi: 10.1177/1091581811428184.
Safety assessment of cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and cycloheptasiloxane.
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